How i-D influenced vogue images

Terry and Tricia Jones started i-D in 1980 amid the flood of post-punk and new wave, and these countercultural roots have shaped the magazine from the start. Terry came from the comparatively shiny world of British Vogue, where he gave the magazine an unconventional twist in his time as art director between 1972 and 1977, including the cover "Green Jelly" shot by Willie Christie, which he sent for print despite some of the broader team's best efforts to stop it.

"As the art director for UK Vogue in the 1970s, Terry Jones felt that there had to be a publication that explored new ideas about street style, punk and pop culture that titles like Vogue ignored," he explains Adam Murray, guide of the MA Fashion Communication: Fashion Image and BA Fashion Communication and Promotion courses at Central Saint Martins. "As with most good magazines, what other titles ignored was the first to react – there was a need."

The magazine was born in a year that other magazines hit the UK publishing landscape (including Creative Review, of course), namely style titles like Blitz (closed in 1991) and The Face (closed in 2004) its revival in 2019. Though all three fashion publications are often lumped together, Blitz, founded by two Oxford graduates, was considered higher-profile, while The Face felt more polished with a "higher budget, production and finish," according to Dean Davies, a fashion instructor, with a "higher budget, production and finish" on communication at UWE . "The first edition of i-D was incredibly DIY, a true reflection of the punk era it was born into," he adds, noting i-D's immediate and ongoing focus on "culture and fashion off the street" as the key differentiator.

Above: Terry Jones' archive collages from the 40th Anniversary Edition, photographed by Emma Lewis. Above: the cover of the first issue of i-D magazine from 1980